Pirates, Sharks and Conquistadors: The Colonial Splendor of Granada, Nicaragua Part1

By Fareboom Staff, Mon, Jun 6, 2016

It is close to sunset but still the ever-sticky, cloying heat of Granada hangs in the air – even up here in the bell tower of La Merced church. Still, I haven't paid my dollar and climbed the vertigo-inducing, spiraling steps for the chance of a breeze; I am here for the view. From my vantage point the splendor of what was once considered the jewel of Spanish colonies in the New World is laid like a multi-colored canvas beneath me. Simply put, Granada is lovely. The beautifully preserved center is made up of houses, which come in every shade – from lilac and lime-green to turquoise and tangerine. Wooden doors tend to be huge and typically ornately carved, masking interiors – which might be either hovel or exquisitely preserved colonial home – from the street.

The twin towers and dome of the city's bright ochre and muted crimson colored cathedral rise majestically on the skyline for me, leading the eye to Lake Nicaragua beyond. Dubbed 'the Sweet Sea' by the settling conquistadors, this lake – known as Lake Granada by the locals – is Central America's largest.

 

Bursting at the seams with conquering Spaniards, there was once a time when rich and prosperous Granada and its lake were a prime target for marauding pirates – including notorious British buccaneer Captain Henry Morgan - who furtively made their way up the San Juan River from the Caribbean Sea. These days a different kind of creature uses the river to navigate the journey from ocean to lake. Tales of the presence of bull sharks here were once thought by most to be nothing more than colorful local legend but, as is often the case, it turns out the locals know best. There are bull sharks here and there is now irrefutable scientific evidence, as unlikely as it may seem, to prove it. Tagging and tracking of certain sharks has also shown the transition they make from ocean to lake and vice versa.

Once the sun has set, the lakeside changes out of its sleepy daytime clothes and steps instead into its party attire. Scattered along a strip are a handful of venues, strung with multi-colored lights, which heave with reggaeton and Latino beats, much of it delivered by live musicians. This is where the locals come for their after-dark fun and although outsiders are welcome if respectful, it is unusual to encounter other foreigners here. Refreshing night breezes drifting off the lake strive valiantly – if a little futilely - to keep me cool as I am whirled off by yet another hot-stepping Latino to practice my salsa. A quick glance at the perfectly synchronized couples around me reminds me I have a long way to go.

 

 

If I'm in the mood for something a little less heavy on the salsa side I'll head to Reilly's where the 'DJ' (actually a guy choosing 'You Tube' songs on his computer) doubling as bartender entertains the revelers with a range of tracks of varying musical genres. Also offering reasonable food this bar, where visitors and Nicas rub shoulders in equal numbers, is set within yet another beautiful old house with a cobbled inner courtyard which plays the part of dance floor. And this particular dance floor gets packed. There's always something going on here – Mondays are quiz nights, Wednesdays are karaoke, for example, and there is always some kind of '2 for 1' promotion up for grabs.

Besides dancing 'til dawn there's plenty to see and do in and around Granada including a wealth of beautiful churches to visit, an imposing fort and visiting islands on the lake by kayak or boat tour or staying on the twin volcanic peaked ultimately tranquil Ometepe. There's also a cemetery which looks like something from a Gothic movie-set with a touch of Disney thrown in. You can sign up for a tour which will have you gazing at the glowing lava inside a volcanic crater or whizz along a zip-line which soars above the forest canopy located on the slopes of yet another volcano.

 

 

Few people know that Nicaragua is the world's second largest producer of cigars. Right here in Granada you can take a tour of one of several cigar-making set-ups and then try your hand at making your very own cigar. Chocolate crafting is also a big thing here in Central America with a lineage which stretches right back to the Mayans. Granada tours take visitors on a journey from cacao bean to chocolate bar and at the ChocoMuseo you can even turn chocolate maker for the day. Located in a vast mansion, the ChocoMuseo also happens to have a pool which day visitors can use, the chance to indulge in a chocolate massage and an 'everybody's welcome' incredible all-you-can-eat buffet breakfast which has fueled me for the day on many occasions.

 

 

It is time to climb down from my bell tower view and head home. I don't have far to go. Just next door to La Merced is my base at De Boca En Boca. This is the most sought after (but advertised nowhere) hostel in town thanks to the incredible atmosphere and 1001 special touches created here by wonderful French couple - Raman and Apolline. On Friday nights a huge statue of Jesus emerges from the church, followed by brass instrument players and is paraded through the streets for a while on the shoulders of well-built locals. This sight never fails to move me. It is so very Granada somehow and because it is Friday night and because I am already right on the spot...I guess I'll linger a while.

 

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Deneice Arthurton is an expert at solo world travel. She is a freelance writer and surfer who has been traveling the world for the last 9 years. You can follow her adventures on Pinterest. 

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